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Revlon was not above using a bit of ‘muscle’.

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Sales chief Martin Revson believes there are three kinds of selling. First is what he calls the canned talk type. Salesmen using this type usually sell nuts or bolts or cigarettes—some product for which there is a constant demand and which will sell pretty much according to the number of calls made per day. The formula is: levitra pastillas The more accounts you visit, the more you sell. However, ‘executive selling’ was supplemented by a number of very aggressive sales practices. In 1942, for example, a trade magazine reported that the Los Angeles company, Seal-Cote Co., had accused Revlon of violating its trade-name and pressuring dealers.

Seal-Cote made the charge that not only was Revlon’s Seal-Fast an imitation of their product Seal-Cote, but that since Revlon had introduced their product in 1941, the company had been “coercing dealers, jobbers and beauty parlours not to carry Seal-Cote“ (AP&EOR, 1942) resulting in the cancellation of numerous Seal-Cote orders.

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The exuberant 1920s had ended with nail polish being produced in a wide variety of colours – including blues and greens as well as metallic colours like gold, silver, and bronze – but the depression years of the 1930s would see nail fashions move to more subdued reds and smokey-reds and this was the colour range Revlon was promoting. Back in 1933, cream nail enamel was received by beauty salon and consumer alike with great enthusiasm, for it gave the nails a covering that hid flaws as no product had ever done before. And it gave Revlon the “hook” by which they could enter the style business with a commodity. This was not the only reason why reds came to dominate nail polish colours in the 1930s. The growing trend to match nail polish with lipsticks also saw a turn to reds.

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The colours selected for Revlon Nail Enamels were mostly the work of Charles Revson. Whatever else that might be said of him, he did have a good eye for colour, at least as it applied to make-up and clothing; furnishings and fixtures were another matter. More importantly, Revson treated nail enamel colours like fashion items and, from 1937, brought out new shades each spring and autumn. All of Revlon’s marketing efforts would then be put into promoting the new shades while older ones, if still available, were soft-pedalled. Revson’s commitment to this idea was such that, in 1937, he opened a style department at Revlon – run by Miss Cherie Shackleton – specifically to promote style and fashion in manicure items. This was not an isolated case and eventually the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) issued Revlon with a series of cease and desist orders in 1954 and 1956. However, by then it was too late.

After 1955, demand for Revlon products was such that that coercion was largely unnecessary. Revlon’s attempts to shut out competitors date back more than 20 years and it took the Trade Commission some time to get this giant specialist on women’s beauty to agree that it would quit using unfair trade practices on those beauty shops which dared sell a rival product. As it became a larger cosmetic company, with a strong department store presence, Revlon improved its sales by placing demonstrators in select stores and made payments of ‘push money’ elsewhere.

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By 1955, the company had over 600 demonstrators employed in department stores throughout the country.

As well as promoting Revlon products, the demonstrators could give immediate feedback by telephone on how lines were moving (Television Magazine, 1955); feedback that was added to field reports from regional managers, salon and department store representatives. Revlon’s sales in the 1930s were helped by its early business being salon-oriented. The popularity of the new permanent waves attracted a lot of customers to American beauty salons in the 1930s and many women would have a manicure while waiting for their hair to set.

It was a lot easier for a Revlon salesman to get an order from a salon than a department store, and a salon manicure allowed customers to try and then buy a Revlon nail enamel. Salons that tried the product and liked it would reorder and their customers would spread the word.

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Revlon’s growing popularity in salons also helped Revlon salesmen convince department stores that they need to stock Revlon products.

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As well as colour, Revlon nail enamels may have been superior in other ways, as the story below – repeated in books about Diane Vreeland – suggests: Mrs Vreeland – later fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar and subsequent editor of Vogue – became close to a friend of Flame’s [‘Flame’ d’Erlanger], simply called Perrera, who dabble in investments, but whose greatest love was giving manicures. … Perrera’s polish was made to a special formula which he alone knew, drying almost instantly to a rock-hard finish. From time to time he would give some to friends, and when Mrs Vreeland returned to New York in the late 1930s, she took two bottles with her. There are other reports that Revlon had a quality product. A.

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C. Bailey, of the Bailey Beauty Supply Company, Chicago – who admittedly became a Revlon distributer in 1934 and may therefore be a little biased – is quoted as saying: “I went with him,” Bailey says, “because I had checked with some of the finest beauty shops in the east, like Michael of the Waldorf, and found the polish was incredible. It was chip-proof and had more stay-on power, had more gloss and lustre, the colors were beautiful, and the formula was just terrific. We were carrying at the time about five brands of nail polish. Blue Bird, Chen-Yu, Glazo and a couple of others. Revlon began selling to department stores in 1935, but continued to produce products that were aimed at making salon manicures a total Revlon experience.

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The company provided salons with information on how to sell manicures and gave suggestions on different manicure treatments. Special, personalized manicures have been developed by Revlon and outlined in a booklet, “How to give … how to sell Revlon Manicures.” Just as the hair requires individual treatment in permanent waving so to do different hands, Revlon maintains, and suggests four techniques: a style manicure; a lactol manicure for dry, brittle hands; a hand sculpture manicure with massage; a hand sculpture manicure with arm massage.

Warnings & Precautions

Most nail polishes at that time in the United States were formulated to be transparent and used dyes rather than pigments as colourants. In the early 1930s the fashion trend was to only colour the nail across the centre of the nail plate, leaving the moon and the free edge clear. When applied with skill this look went well with transparent nail polishes. Cutex was still promoting this nail fashion as late as 1938, even though it had introduced a cream polish in 1934. By contrast, opaque or cream nail polishes – containing pigments including titanium dioxide – were usually painted over most or the whole fingernail.

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They hid flaws in the nail and were easier to apply. What is not true is that transparent polish only came in a limited range of colours – Peggy Sage, for example, had a dozen or so different shades of nail polish in 1930 that could be harmonised with jewellery. It is also not correct to say that Elka was the only company making cream polishes. Again, Peggy Sage, for example had some in her range. However, the number of shades was not as important as the colours in the range. Each incorporates one or more of four new Revlon products. They are hand massage cream for lubrication, a hand finishing lotion, a hand cream of the pink pearly type and an emulsified pearl hand lotion.

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We threw everything else out and carried only Revlon.” Revlon nail enamels therefore appear to have been as good as, if not better than its competitors. In part, this was due to Revson’s obsession with quality. Quality concerns may have been the reason for Revson switching his nail polish supplier from Dresden to Maas & Walstein around 1937, although a cynic might interpret this move as an example of Revson’s aversion to being beholden to anyone, and/or part of the move that saw Lachman’s share of the Revlon business cut from one-half to one-third (Tobias, 1976, p. 51). Even if we accept that Revlon’s nail enamel was good and its colours fashionable I do not think this completely explains the rise in the company’s fortunes in the 1930s.

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For that we need to look at Revlon’s sales force. Charles Revson was a very successful salesman. He was enthusiastic, quite good looking when younger, would endear himself to female buyers by arriving with his nails painted in the latest Revlon shades, and was apparently prepared to exchange sex for a Revlon sale or extra counter space if the opportunity arose. When Martin Revson joined Revlon in 1935 as its sales manager, he proved to be an even better salesman and was very effective in building Revlon’s sales team. In a 1951 interview, he outlined three types of sales practices – canned, franchise and executive – with ‘executive’ being the highest class and the one Revlon used. These items, in addition to some new steel implements and nail enamels, are offered in a handsome chrome manicure tray.

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If a Chen-Yu nail enamel color chart somehow walked out of a store in a salesman’s briefcase … well, it could always be replaced by a Revlon color chart. If the bottle caps on some Chen-Yu nail enamels were loosened a bit and the enamel hardened … well, the store, or the customer, would know not to buy an inferior brand again. If, in an attempt to secure counter space, a salesman should spread his arms out, accidentally sweeping the competitive product off either end of the counter onto the floor … well, the salesmen were authorized to buy up the damaged merchandise at the retailer’s cost and replace it with Revlon product. In its endeavours to ‘bury the opposition’ Revlon continued to use these dubious sales practices and added others. Leaving aside charges of wire-tapping in the 1950s – strongly suggested but unproven – the most important of these was coercion.